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Epicurean Adventure In Arty Chiang

Subject: Epicurean Adventure In Arty Chiang Mai 

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Epicurean Adventure In Arty Chiang Mai

    =20
      Illustration for TIME by Samantha Newstead
    =20
By JENNIFER GAMPELL=20

Chiang Mai, Thailand's Northern Rose, is in full bloom. Founded more =
than 700 years ago, the former capital of the loose confederation of =
city-states called Lan Na Thai (One Million Thai Rice Fields) has always =
felt itself apart--in geography, culture and attitude--from the rest of =
the country. Artisans and traders from nearby China, Burma and Laos, who =
for centuries settled in the northern mountains and lush river valleys, =
have contributed to Chiang Mai's rich artistic heritage. Today, as =
increasing numbers of disaffected Bangkok residents abandon the chaotic =
capital for the relative serenity of the north, the country's =
second-largest city is enjoying a mini renaissance.=20

With a population of 180,000, Chiang Mai has its own traffic gridlock =
and air pollution problems. Many classic Lanna-style wooden houses have =
given way to ugly modern developments. Yet plenty of the ancient =
temples--36 within the original city walls alone--and charming buildings =
still remain. And an influx of talented artists and designers has =
created exciting new shopping opportunities for visitors.=20

No expedition would be complete without a visit to the sprawling Chiang =
Mai Night Bazaar on Changklan Road--if only to appreciate the better =
quality of products available elsewhere. While a few second-floor stores =
in the main building sell reliable antiques and reproductions, the =
endless rows of tiny stalls in the two-block area offer mainly =
mass-produced schlock and dreadful knock-offs. Still, if your time is =
short, nobody back home will know or care that what you bought them was =
definitely not one of a kind.=20

But if you're looking for a unique gift or eager to redecorate your home =
on a budget, there is no better city in Asia. To start, take one of the =
semi-enclosed red Chiang Mai taxis (fares range from $1 to $4 depending =
on your bargaining abilities) to Sop Moei Arts, 31-35 Charoenraj Road, =
(66-53) 260-844, a lovely two-story teak house on the other side of the =
Ping River from the town center. International designers have teamed up =
with Karen hill-tribe artisans from Sop Moei village to develop a line =
of beautifully crafted decorative items and soft furnishings. Everything =
looks modern yet retains its ethnic sensibilities. A pumpkin-seed basket =
is transformed into an ingenious wine bottle holder, a woven bamboo =
knife sheath becomes a napkin ring.=20

Your next stop should be Living Space at 276-278 Tha Phae Road, (66-53) =
206-423, opposite the Thai Farmers Bank. This gracious old house is =
filled with premium-quality locally made green celadon pottery, stunning =
Vietnamese lacquerware in both pastel and primary colors, original =
fabrics and other quirky objets d'art. Close by at 234 Tha Phae is Lost =
Heavens, home of the unique Joy of Sax bamboo instruments (shape and =
reed are sax-like, the fingering is related to the recorder). A "G" or =
"F" instrument, complete with instruction sheet and hemp bag, costs =
roughly $100.=20

Several interesting shops are clustered around Nimmanhaemin Road near =
the Amari Rincome Hotel. At 6/23-24 is Gerard Collection, three floors =
of European-style modern bamboo furniture--not a nail in =
sight--including sturdy sofas, lamps, cabinets and environmentally =
responsible flooring materials made from pressed bamboo instead of the =
rapidly dwindling local hardwoods. Gerard also showcases work by other =
local designers, such as bowls and containers made from mango wood (a =
politically correct timber). A couple of doors down at 95/19 (don't let =
the numbers confuse you) is Sipsong Panna Silver, an impressive =
collection of reliably vintage silverware, custom-made jewelry, opium =
weights and beads from Thailand and neighboring countries. And around =
the corner at 301/1 Soi 1 Nimmanhaemin is Gong Dee Gallery, home to =
affordable decorative items by young Thai designers.=20

Need some revitalizing after your shopping spree? Chiang Mai restaurants =
cater to every palate and pocketbook. The city has become something of a =
vegetarian mecca since the World Vegetarian Congress held its annual =
meeting here in January--and gave the Novotel Hotel an award for best =
vegetarian food in town. Not to miss is Khun Churn, Soi 13 Nimmanhaemin, =
where a mere $1.25 buys a delicious and varied Thai buffet at lunchtime. =
When night falls, an interesting place to eat is the Come-In House, 79/3 =
Sirithorn Rd, (66-53) 212-516, which serves traditional Thai fare in an =
old teak home where you can eat outdoors or in the comfort of air =
conditioning, lounging upon cushions on the hardwood floor. With its =
blossoming reputation as a delight for the senses, Chiang Mai is well =
worth a visit.=20


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<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT color=3D#990000 size=3D5>Epicurean Adventure =
In Arty Chiang=20
Mai</FONT><BR><BR>
<TABLE align=3Dright border=3D0 cellPadding=3D0 cellSpacing=3D0 =
width=3D170>
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      width=3D160><BR><FONT color=3D#333333 =
face=3Dhelvetica,arial,sans-serif=20
      size=3D1>Illustration for TIME by Samantha=20
Newstead<BR></FONT></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><FONT color=3D#333333=20
face=3Darial,helvetica,sans-serif size=3D2>By JENNIFER GAMPELL =
<BR><BR>Chiang Mai,=20
Thailand's Northern Rose, is in full bloom. Founded more than 700 years =
ago, the=20
former capital of the loose confederation of city-states called Lan Na =
Thai (One=20
Million Thai Rice Fields) has always felt itself apart--in geography, =
culture=20
and attitude--from the rest of the country. Artisans and traders from =
nearby=20
China, Burma and Laos, who for centuries settled in the northern =
mountains and=20
lush river valleys, have contributed to Chiang Mai's rich artistic =
heritage.=20
Today, as increasing numbers of disaffected Bangkok residents abandon =
the=20
chaotic capital for the relative serenity of the north, the country's=20
second-largest city is enjoying a mini renaissance. <BR><BR>With a =
population of=20
180,000, Chiang Mai has its own traffic gridlock and air pollution =
problems.=20
Many classic Lanna-style wooden houses have given way to ugly modern=20
developments. Yet plenty of the ancient temples--36 within the original =
city=20
walls alone--and charming buildings still remain. And an influx of =
talented=20
artists and designers has created exciting new shopping opportunities =
for=20
visitors. <BR><BR>No expedition would be complete without a visit to the =

sprawling Chiang Mai Night Bazaar on Changklan Road--if only to =
appreciate the=20
better quality of products available elsewhere. While a few second-floor =
stores=20
in the main building sell reliable antiques and reproductions, the =
endless rows=20
of tiny stalls in the two-block area offer mainly mass-produced schlock =
and=20
dreadful knock-offs. Still, if your time is short, nobody back home will =
know or=20
care that what you bought them was definitely not one of a kind. =
<BR><BR>But if=20
you're looking for a unique gift or eager to redecorate your home on a =
budget,=20
there is no better city in Asia. To start, take one of the semi-enclosed =
red=20
Chiang Mai taxis (fares range from $1 to $4 depending on your bargaining =

abilities) to Sop Moei Arts, 31-35 Charoenraj Road, (66-53) 260-844, a =
lovely=20
two-story teak house on the other side of the Ping River from the town =
center.=20
International designers have teamed up with Karen hill-tribe artisans =
from Sop=20
Moei village to develop a line of beautifully crafted decorative items =
and soft=20
furnishings. Everything looks modern yet retains its ethnic =
sensibilities. A=20
pumpkin-seed basket is transformed into an ingenious wine bottle holder, =
a woven=20
bamboo knife sheath becomes a napkin ring. <BR><BR>Your next stop should =
be=20
Living Space at 276-278 Tha Phae Road, (66-53) 206-423, opposite the =
Thai=20
Farmers Bank. This gracious old house is filled with premium-quality =
locally=20
made green celadon pottery, stunning Vietnamese lacquerware in both =
pastel and=20
primary colors, original fabrics and other quirky objets d'art. Close by =
at 234=20
Tha Phae is Lost Heavens, home of the unique Joy of Sax bamboo =
instruments=20
(shape and reed are sax-like, the fingering is related to the recorder). =
A "G"=20
or "F" instrument, complete with instruction sheet and hemp bag, costs =
roughly=20
$100. <BR><BR>Several interesting shops are clustered around =
Nimmanhaemin Road=20
near the Amari Rincome Hotel. At 6/23-24 is Gerard Collection, three =
floors of=20
European-style modern bamboo furniture--not a nail in sight--including =
sturdy=20
sofas, lamps, cabinets and environmentally responsible flooring =
materials made=20
from pressed bamboo instead of the rapidly dwindling local hardwoods. =
Gerard=20
also showcases work by other local designers, such as bowls and =
containers made=20
from mango wood (a politically correct timber). A couple of doors down =
at 95/19=20
(don't let the numbers confuse you) is Sipsong Panna Silver, an =
impressive=20
collection of reliably vintage silverware, custom-made jewelry, opium =
weights=20
and beads from Thailand and neighboring countries. And around the corner =
at=20
301/1 Soi 1 Nimmanhaemin is Gong Dee Gallery, home to affordable =
decorative=20
items by young Thai designers. <BR><BR>Need some revitalizing after your =

shopping spree? Chiang Mai restaurants cater to every palate and =
pocketbook. The=20
city has become something of a vegetarian mecca since the World =
Vegetarian=20
Congress held its annual meeting here in January--and gave the Novotel =
Hotel an=20
award for best vegetarian food in town. Not to miss is Khun Churn, Soi =
13=20
Nimmanhaemin, where a mere $1.25 buys a delicious and varied Thai buffet =
at=20
lunchtime. When night falls, an interesting place to eat is the Come-In =
House,=20
79/3 Sirithorn Rd, (66-53) 212-516, which serves traditional Thai fare =
in an old=20
teak home where you can eat outdoors or in the comfort of air =
conditioning,=20
lounging upon cushions on the hardwood floor. With its blossoming =
reputation as=20
a delight for the senses, Chiang Mai is well worth a visit.=20
<BR></FONT></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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