"...as we rattle along rutted dirt tracks in a battered jeep, Aung Kyaing, chief archaeologist of Pagan's breathtaking 1,000-year-old Buddhist temples, points out an enormous pentagonal pyramid sparkling in the morning sunlight, dominating this arid central Burma plain. "Dhammayazika,� he informs me as we bounce past a golden, bell-shaped dome with red banners and a flashy marble walkway. "Secretary Number One paid for the restoration himself.� ..."